| FAT WORMS.com |
| Compost red worms are a species of domestic earthworm called Eisenia Fetida. Recycle yard and household waste, paper, and manure, using compost red worms. Also used for reptile, fish & bird feed. |
Grow your own
- BULK WORM SALES INFO:
- I ship by Priority Mail on Mondays only. Most worm shipments arrive Wed or Thurs.
- Payment made by 5 p.m. Saturday for shipping that Monday
- Live arrival guarantee. You must notify me within 14 days for full refund.
- I ship to Continental U.S. addresses only.
- Check-out my 'ladyprospector' feedback rating on eBay
- Amazon.com seller (Jackass Junction)
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| Mailing Address: Jackass Junction, 4815 Silver City Hwy NW, Deming, NM 88030 (This is a shipping center not a retail outlet) For more info contact: jackassjunction@gmail.com |
| Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth (fossil shell flour)products |
| Fossil shell flour is a natural non-toxic food grade product used for: pest control (ants, fleas, flies etc), livestock & pet feed mineral additive, soil & worm bed enhancer . . . See below for more info. |
| 10 lbs Fossil Shell Flour $27. + 15.00 UPS shipping Ten lbs-- |
| 50 lbs Fossil Shell Flour $45. + 35.00 UPS shipping Fifty lbs-- |
| FOOD GRADE DIATOMACEOUS EARTH History & Use Information |
| PURE DIATOMACEOUS EARTH PRODUCTS Click Here for Perma-Guard Fossil Shell Flour |
| Pet & Animal Powder 2 lbs (Including cats & kittens) $27. + 10.00 UPS shipping Pet & Animal Powder 30 lbs (Including cats & kittens) $170. + $30. UPS Shipping (Diatomaceous Earth & Pyrethrum mixture for tough infestations. This product works faster than 100% Fossil Flour because the natural Pyrethrum taken from Chrysanthemum flowers is a nerve irritant to insects, causing them to move frantically, thus dehydrating and dying faster.) Apply directly to your pet and his bedding. Can safely be used inside or outside your home. 8 oz to 16 oz will treat 1,000 sq ft. Use as a dry dust or mixed with water at the rate of 2 oz per quart and sprayed as a liquid. (CANNOT SHIP TO CALIFORNIA AND FLORIDA) |
| Fire Ant Powder 2 lbs $29. + 10.00 UPS shipping Fire Ant Powder 30 lbs $175.00 + $30. UPS Shipping Diatomaceous Earth, Pyrethrum, & Piperonyl Butoxide (from Sassafras plants) mixture for tough infestations. This product works faster than 100% Fossil Flour because the natural Pyrethrum taken from Chrysanthemum flowers is a nerve irritant to insects, causing them to move frantically, thus dehydrating and dying faster. Piperonyl Butoxide is a Synergist, causing the Pyrethrum to be 10 times more effective. Apply directly in and around the ant nest. To kill the queen, build a dirt funnel, and using 4 tablespoons per gallon of water, plus 1 tablespoon of mild detergent, shake, then pour into the hole. Use as a dry dust or mixed with water and detergent. (CANNOT SHIP TO CA & FL) |
| 5 lbs Fossil Shell Flour $19. + 12.00 Priority shipping Five lbs-- |
| See below for history and use information of Food Grade Fossil Shell Mineral Flour |
| FOOD GRADE DIATOMACEOUS EARTH FACT LIST The U.S. EPA allows food grade DE use in food storage and processing areas (Fed. Reg. 1981). The FDA has exempted diatomaceous earth from requirements of fixed residue levels when added to stored grain (Fed. Reg. 1961). The IPM Practitioner, Monitoring the Field of Pest Management, William Quarles, Volume XIV, Number 5/6, May/June 1992, published studies of dairy farm use of diatomaceous earth to control worms and other internal parasites. Dr. Phillip Schaible, University of Michigan, published his research on diatomaceous earth and the benefits to the livestock industry. National Geographic in 1979 did an article about the history and benefits of diatomaceous earth. An analysis of 14 trace minerals was done by Galen D. Knight, Ph.D, President Vitale Therapeutics, Inc. by MALDI mass spectometry. DE was also tested and proven by Louis Delisle and Arizona State University. Because of its chelated minerals and dissolvability it is used in hydroponic gardens, and packaged and sold in chiropractor offices, health food stores, and in holistic doctors offices. |
| *Scroll down for Red Worm Care Notes* |
| Mineral PPM %Composition Mineral PPM %Composition Calcium 1300 0.13 Vanadium 4 0.0004 Magnesium 750.67 0.075067 Germanium 2 0.0002 Sodium 680 0.068 Mercury 2 0.0002 Potassium 478 0.0478 Cadmium 1 0.0001 Copper 4 0.0004 Lead 5 0.0005 Zinc 5.33 0.000533 Aluminum 1100 0.1100 Iron 950 0.0950 Arsenic 0 0 Phosphorus 76 0.0076 Lithium 3 0.0003 Selenium 2 0.0002 Strontium 20 0.002 Silicon (Soluble) 21.67 0.002167 Barium 11.33 0.001133 Boron 7 0.0007 Gold 0.067 0.0000067 Manganese 32.33 0.003233 Telurium 0 0 Chromium 2.33 0.000233 Thallium 0 0 Cobalt 5.67 0.000567 Beryllium 0.05 0.000005 Tin 3.67 0.000367 Bismuth 0 0 Nickel 2.33 0.000233 Total Acid Soluble 0.5470117 Molybdenum 0.67 0.000067 Acid insoluble matrix 99.4529883* Total Composition 100.0000000 * Note: Difference from Acid Solutes. Purity of the Diatomaceous Earth ( Fossil Shell Flour) was confirmed by MALDI mass spectometry, indicating that the material is virtually free from any other form of contamination. MALDI is a technique in which the matrix is used to assist ionization of molecules on the surface of the material, caused by a blast from a UV Laser. This analysis confirms purity and suggests that even the above listed trace elements are not readily ionized and volatilized from the surface. Cordially, Galen D. Knight, Ph.D. President, VitaleTherapeutics, Inc. 3205 Arizona NE, Albuquerque, NM 87110 USA website: www.VitaleTherapeutics.org ______________________________________________________________________________________________ Toxic Heavy Metals affect the body differently than metals that are known nutrients and metals that bind water and sulfur compounds. Nutritious metal ions provide protection against the accumulation of toxic metal ions. This is why chelation therapies and mineral supplementation are successful. ____________________________________________________________________________________ *ALL DIATOMACEOUS EARTH INFORMATION AND HISTORY PROVIDED BY WALLY THARP, FOUNDER OF PERMA GUARD DIATOMACEOUS EARTH NATURAL PRODUCTS, AND MYSELF, LAURA LEVESQUE, OWNER/OPERATOR OF FATWORMS.COM AND MINERALFLOUR.INFO |
Thanks for visiting Fat Worms! |
| (RED WORM information site) |
NOTE: All my worm castings will contain worms and egg capsules (Contact me by email for local pick-up appointment) |
| This Food Grade Fossil Shell Mineral Flour/Diatomaceous Earth is listed in OMRI--Organic Certified Materials Institute |
| BLACK GOLD WORM CASTINGS |
| Last Update Sept 21, 2009 |
| ALL PRODUCTS PRICING AND SHIPPING FOR CONTINENTAL U.S. ONLY |
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| 40lb+ castings available for local pick-up (by appt) only. |
| & |
| Please don't contact Galen or VitaleTherapeutics for worm sales information. They are scientists, not worm farmers. Thanks. |
Sorry, I had to remove my phone number from the website due to countless unsolicited calls. Please contact me by email. Thanks. |
| Local pick-up for bulk run worms available. Bring your own buckets or bins. $10 per 5 gallon bucket of bulk worms (approx 1,000 worms) with donkey manure bedding. By appointment only. Contact me first by email: jackassjunction@gmail.com |
| Red Worm Care Notes When the worms are shipped from the worm farm, they can look so poor upon receipt, especially during hot weather, or if the shipment was delayed, that it’s hard to believe they will rebound, but they do. After a day or two in their new home, they gain weight and spring back to life. (Below are multiple worm farming techniques from small scale worm growers, to give you ideas that might fit your circumstances.) TECHNIQUE 1: For worm food, I used fruit scraps and bread products without any trouble. I placed banana peels, apple and pear cores, dry baby cereal, coffee grounds with filter, leftover bread, etc, ½” beneath the surface of the bedding. Bacteria beneath the surface decompose the food and turn it into a wet muck, which is then edible to the worms. Initially, I would feed the worms every three or four days or until I saw the majority of the food was gone. I’ve read that red worms can consume their weight in organic food each day, thus 1 lb. of worms needs 1lb. of food per day. I can’t say how much food I fed my worms (I never measured), but I fed them scraps more or less at my convenience. Remember that shredded newspaper, saw dust, peat moss, and cardboard egg cartons are not only moisture aids, but also organic material that is consumed by the worms when other food is not available. Note: because of the microbial activity, I believe it is important to keep the mixture aerobic, so I would turn the entire mixture over about twice a week to keep air and water moving through the soil. As a side benefit, red worms generate droppings, called castings, which are rich in nutrients. Inside my *Styrofoam bin, I divided the culture into two distinct portions: one side had the food, larger clumps of soil, moisture retaining material and worms, the other side had all the small black dirt (castings) that was gradually separated from the first section. I would allow the separated black dirt to set for a week or so to allow any worm eggs to hatch or allow any other worms to migrate to the food section. Once collected, the organically rich compost is used as potting soil for all the house plants. You will not find a better commercially available natural medium. *(The worms were placed into a standard size fish styro containing a mixture of damp peat moss and potting soil. To help retain moisture, I also cut strips of newspaper and shredded a cardboard egg carton and added both to the mixture. The moisture was maintained at a damp level, just a bit drier than what I would consider wet… somewhat the consistency of pipe tobacco. At first, I placed the original styro lid on the box but this proved to be too close fitting. The mixture turned moldy and smelled musty within 2 weeks. I modified the lid by poking a ballpoint pen through the Styrofoam to create 25 holes in a grid pattern. Each hole was no bigger than the diameter of the pen. This proved adequate enough for ventilation without drying the mixture or allowing curious worms to escape.) TECHNIQUE 2: There are many species of manure worms or 'composting worms' that are so closely related only an expert can tell the difference. Whether called a red wiggler, red gold, striper, curler, tiger or any other fancy name, chances are they are a variety of a red worm. Raised as a bait worm, but also for organic gardening and reptile food, composting worms live, breed and work in groups while living in and eating organic waste. They live and breed mostly in the top four to six inches of bedding. Red worms require a bedding made of manure and some other type of organic material. We use 50% peat moss to 50% manure. We try to use as much rabbit manure as possible in our bedding mixture, but we also use cow, horse and poultry manure. The important thing to remember with the bedding is that is has to be past the heating stage. Hot manure (fresh manure) needs to be composted a bit before your bedding is mixed. Failure to do this will cause the bedding to heat, and your worms may die. Another great bedding is shredded newspaper or cardboard with manure. Worms love paper bedding. Shred the newspaper and then soak it. After it is soaked let the water drip from it for a couple of minutes and place it in the beds or pits. Mix in manure and a you will have your bedding. There are many different things that can be used for bedding. If you remember the following you will be able to improvise: Red worms need moisture at all times. The more moisture the bigger they will become. But remember to check the pH level, should be close to 7 or neutral. If using grain, top feed your worms. Many people believe that mixing feed in with the worms will work best. I have found that top feeding with chicken layer mash works well. Place in only enough feed for a day or so. Do not mix the beds until the feed is gone. This will stop the feed from getting mixed in, and causing the bedding to heat and sour. Mixing feed into the bedding will cause the bedding to sour. Sour bedding will kill worms. Test your soil regularly with commonly bought pH testers. These testers are only a couple of bucks, and can be found at many feed and garden centers. Sprinkle pulverized limestone on top of the bedding after watering to control acid. Worm beds can be constructed from a variety of materials. We have used plastic tubs of various sizes, 1" x 12" lumber and concrete blocks. We have earth-bottom beds and concrete-bottom beds. A 4' X 8' bed is a convenient size to start on a small scale. Try to locate natural shade for beds under trees, if possible. You can build a shade over your beds, but we try to take advantage of natural shading. Commercial worms, raised in captivity, will need to be shaded from the hot sun, and protected from winter rains. Worms in their natural environment go down into the soil for protection from the elements. To build a bed with concrete blocks, dig down 6" and level the ground. Set the walls of the bed with the bricks and fill the bottom with concrete. Leave ½" x ¼" drainage holes at each corner. Place 3" of gravel at the bottom of the bed. When you feel comfortable raising worms, you can build larger beds of commercial size, up to 50 to 60 feet. The beds should be 1½ to 2 feet high. Mixtures for bedding can be any combination of peat moss, composted rabbit, horse or cow manure and shredded paper, (newspaper/cardboard) - Fill a tub with Canadian peat moss. Soak it for at least 24 hours. It takes a day or two for the peat moss fibers to open. Drain the water, as if to rinse the peat moss. Add an equal amount of other materials. The mixture should be moist, not soaking. When you can squeeze out a few drops of water it is ready for worms. You may also use other material that you have on hand. Worms will live in most any rotted material. They eat anything that was once living. You can also use materials such as leaf mold, composted sawdust, peanut hulls, dry wall, or sewer sludge. Shred your material, the finer the better. When there is no danger of burning worms from composting heat, take the mixture and fill the beds to within 6" of the top. Make sure the bed filler mixture is moist. Worms raised in captivity are dependent on their caretaker to keep their environment safe, as they have no where to escape. If your worms are crawling up the sides of your beds in an attempt to "get out", there is something foul with your bed. They need food, moisture, oxygen and a pH between 6.0 and 7.0, 6.5 being ideal. Sprinkle the bed with ground limestone to reduce the acid level, sulfur to raise it. TECHNIQUE 3: After filling your beds with bedding, just lay the worms on top and let them burrow into the material. Within twenty minutes they should disappear into the bed. This way they create their own holes from the start. (Any dead worms will be left on top and should be removed.) You should then put feed over the bed sparingly. Wet the feed until it is moist. When the feed disappears from the top of the bed, replenish it in the same way. Water your beds daily with a light sprinkling. We use a sprinkling wand purchased from a nursery or hardware store. With time you will learn the proper amount, adjusting for your climate. Add about 1" of your bed filler material once a month to give the worms new bedding and also help out with feeding. Once a month you should turn your beds with a pitchfork so your bed filler will stay loose; always avoid standing on or stepping on your beds to keep them from packing down. Types of Feed - chicken laying mash, cottonseed meal, ground corncobs, (shuck and all), rabbit, horse, and cow manure, citrus pulp, peanut meal. ANY fully composted material that is FREE of pesticides. Do not feed dairy, meat, fish, or greasy foods. [NOTE: Many worm growers feed their worms dairy, meat, fish, dead animals, etc by covering deep enough to eliminate odors that attract flies and rodents. Also vermicomposting (worm composting) is used for pit style composting toilets and for processing humanure.] TECHNIQUE 4: JACKASS JUNCTION OUTDOOR RED WORM CARE Another method I have used for years is an outdoor shallow dirt pit for desert hot summer climates (like Deming, NM), with 2 or more feet of layered donkey manure, soil, uneaten hay, old newspaper, cardboard (wetted down in a wheel barrow), coffee grounds, filters, cotton rags, etc. I don’t test the pH, but I sprinkle the bed occasionally with ground limestone and Diatomaceous Earth (fossil shell flour). When the mounded pit begins to sink I pile more bedding on top. In hot dry weather I water the bed twice a week. In 100 + degree weather I sprinkle the beds daily. In cooler winter desert weather I’ll water once a week or every other week. In snowy, cold weather I don’t water at all. To harvest the castings I apply fresh bedding and feed next to the castings area I want to remove. By watering the fresh bedding and letting the old castings area dry out the worms migrate to the fresh bedding and feed. In Magdalena, NM (6,800 ft) about 2,400 feet higher elevation than Deming, I used old hay bales lined up, end to end, to make rectangular worm bins. Inside these hay boxes I added the layers of soil and compost and watered regularly. In extreme weather I covered the hay bin with layers of cardboard and loose hay. When it is too cold the worms go to the warm manure, when it is too hot they move deep into the cool soil. It is very hard to over- water in the dry desert regions, as the sandy soil underlying the open pit beds drain rapidly. I have never bought any feed, moss, or soil for raising red worms. My first worm beds were under piles of leaves and donkey manure in coastal Washington state. Keep them moist and keep them fed and they will multiply! MOST ASKED QUESTION The question I am asked most is about mold growing on the household waste or manure in worm bins or pits. If you live in a damp coastal type region or you have a contained system, usually of plastic, you will have mold. Most molds that I had while growing worms in the Pacific Northwest or in plastic bins did not effect worm vitality or growth. Mold growth in outdoor open pits with good drainage is of no concern. In plastic self-contained worm bins, lack of drainage or ventilation can cause souring of the bedding and feed. Smelly, mud type consistency of bedding material is not good for worms. The remedy is to aerate the material by stirring it up, sprinkle and mix in ground limestone, mix in shredded paper to absorb access water, and don't feed the worms for about a week. Then begin top-feeding and moistening the top few inches of bedding only. If you have any concerns or problems with your worms you are welcome to email me about them. JackassJunction@gmail.com For Cheap & Easy Worm Bin Plans Click Here The above info was compiled and edited by Laura Leveque aka Worm Queen. Click Here For JackassJunction.net |
Since 1962 Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth (fossil shell flour) was used in grain storage and other food products as an anti-caking agent. As time went on grain storage managers noticed that the treated grain was bug free. And the areas surrounding the fossil shell flour dust were fly free. Further tests and analysis were done. Results were the microscopic particles in Diatomaceous Earth scratch the carapace of insects such as roaches, silverfish, ants, bedbugs, flies, scorpions, crickets, fleas, ticks, lice, etc, resulting in dehydration and death. An example is a fly will walk over the fine powder and get it on its tarsal pads, then rub the irritant behind its head and between thoracic segments and die. More experiments and testing was done and additional positive side effects were noted. Fossil Shell Flour has over 14 minerals such as: Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Zinc, Iron, Phosphorus, Manganese, Chromium, Cobalt . . . . When added to livestock and poultry feed rations productivity increased, parasites eliminated, diseases and veterinary costs dropped, cured E-Coli, and scours. Food grade fossil shell flour contains fine silica that carries a negative ion charge. Parasites and disease organisms carry a positive ion charge. The introduction of negative charged ions in a diseased or parasitic animal is irritating and disruptive to the life cycle of the parasite or disease organism. This Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth product is listed in the OMRI, Organic Materials Review Institute, for use by Certified Organic Farmers. NOTE: This natural food grade Diatomaceous Earth is not to be confused with the swimming pool grade Diatomaceous Earth, which is chemically treated and partially melted and consequently contains crystalline silica which can be a respiratory hazard. Natural Diatomaceous Earth is not a respiratory hazard because human and animal bodies can dissolve it. I personally have used Diatomaceous Earth products for over 10 years, and have eliminated all chemical insecticides and wormers. I take 2 tablespoons in my juice or cereal daily. Many users claim their arthritis was cured by taking Diatomaceous Earth. When my 26 year old donkey developed arthritis in his shoulder I supplemented his diet with 6-8 tablespoons of Fossil Flour per day, after two weeks he stopped limping. I can't make any scientific claims, but it is a regular part of my diet and my cats, dogs, donkeys, and turtle. Diatomaceous Earth is instantly water soluble and can be sprayed where needed. |
| DIATOMACEOUS EARTH PRODUCTS Click Here for Perma-Guard Fossil Shell Flour |
| For DE History & Info Scroll Way Down |
| I'm not shipping worms at this time |
| I'm not shipping worms at this time |
| Retail worm sales are closed at this time. |
| CLOSED |